If you want your garage floor to look crisp, feel tough, and last as long as possible under the demands of Florida life, epoxy can be a winning choice. But the secret behind a smooth, durable coating isn’t just in the product you use—it’s in the preparation. Years of work with garage floors at GCM Best Services have shown us again and again: invest more care at the start, and your epoxy finish will reward you, season after season.

Whether you’re set on doing your own garage or researching what a professional crew should really deliver, we’ll walk you through the right tools, the necessary prep steps, and the “whys” at every stage. Everything here is geared toward the unique soils, weather, and practical needs of Central Florida homes and businesses.

Why surface prep really matters

Epoxy won’t hide flaws—it locks them in. We’ve seen floors that looked acceptable at first, only to peel or chip because the concrete underneath wasn’t properly prepped. That’s precisely why surface preparation is the most important step for a successful garage epoxy coating.

Several published resources emphasize this, including a recent PMC article that states: “Proper surface preparation (cleaning and ensuring a dry substrate) is critical when applying epoxy coatings to concrete to achieve optimal adhesion and performance.”

Flawless prep equals flawless results.

Here, we’ll spell out how to make your old, new, or stained garage floor epoxy-ready—step by step.

Tools and protective gear: What you’ll need

• Concrete degreaser and general cleaner
• Squeegee, stiff-bristle brush, mop, and shop vacuum
• Pressure washer (if needed for stubborn grime)
• Crack filler or patching compound (tailored to concrete type)
• Angle grinder with diamond cup wheel—for mechanical surface profiling
• Respirator (NIOSH-approved for silica dust), safety goggles, gloves, coveralls
• Painter’s tape and plastic sheeting
• Moisture meter—a very good investment for Florida garages
• Broom, dustpan, and lint-free cloths

Some of these tools are required, others optional. In our experience, mechanical grinding is hands-down the best way to prep concrete for epoxy coatings. It creates a microscopic ‘tooth’ so the coating physically bonds with the slab. According to a NIOSH study, using local exhaust ventilation during concrete grinding keeps dust exposure below safe thresholds—something we always do on our job sites.

Personal protection: Don’t skip it

Grinding, cleaning, and patching a slab releases dust and chemicals. For that reason, we always use:

• N95 or P100 respirator (especially during grinding)
• Safety glasses or goggles with wraparound protection
• Nitrile gloves (chemical-resistant)
• Work clothes or coveralls to keep dust and chemicals off the skin
• Hearing protection if noise from grinding is prolonged

Working safe really is part of the job. As detailed in the NIOSH study, using these controls allows you to prep safely and confidently. Repeated exposure to dust or harsh cleaning products presents risks—something we don’t take lightly at GCM Best Services.

Step 1: Remove everything and inspect the floor

We always start by clearing the garage floor completely. Move out vehicles, shelves, boxes, and sweep away all loose material. The cleaner the slate, the fewer challenges you’ll encounter along the way. Next, a close visual inspection is key. We’re looking for:

• Cracks (hairline, spiderweb, or wider)
• Oil stains or chemical spills (which can block epoxy adhesion)
• Efflorescence (the white, powdery residue from concrete moisture)
• Mastic, paint, or previous coatings
• Unevenness or low/high spots (indicate need for leveling)

Every small defect now becomes a big deal later.

Many of these are common in Central Florida garages, especially with our sandy soils and wet-dry cycles. Document anything questionable—you’ll want to repair and clean these spots with extra care.

Step 2: Deep cleaning with degreaser and/or pressure washing

Even a fresh concrete pour or “unused” garage may have construction dust, latex from tires, or, in our local climate, mildew and algae. We recommend:

1. Apply a quality concrete degreaser following manufacturer instructions.
2. Scrub with a stiff-bristle brush—really get into the surface.
3. Let it sit (dwell time helps break down stubborn grime).
4. Rinse thoroughly with clean water. If using a pressure washer, don’t blast too close and risk damaging the concrete surface; use a fan tip and sweep steadily.
5. Clear water must run off the surface before continuing. Mop up puddles and encourage drying with airflow.

No residue should be left behind. Any soap or degreaser film left on the floor will block epoxy from adhering fully.

Step 3: Fix cracks, holes, or surface damage

Cracks are the bane of a flawless finish, but they’re also a common part of Florida life thanks to our sub-base movements and variable moisture. Address every visible crack or pit:

• Use a vacuum or compressed air to clear debris and dust from cracks.
• Choose a crack filler compatible with your chosen epoxy system. For hairline cracks, thin-flowing resins generally work best; for larger ones, we reach for sandable patching compounds or two-part epoxy mortar.
• Inject or trowel the filler into place, overfilling slightly.
• Once cured, sand smooth so the repair is flush with the surrounding floor. Remove any dust after sanding.

Take your time here. A great repair is invisible after coating. For more on this process, our own resources explain concrete crack prevention and repair in Florida soils.

Step 4: Moisture testing (don’t skip this in Florida!)

If a garage floor “sweats” or holds too much hidden moisture, epoxy is very likely to peel or bubble. That’s often why an otherwise beautiful job fails early in Central Florida homes. Testing is simple:

• Use a moisture meter specifically designed for concrete. Readings above 4% can be risky for most epoxies.
• If lacking a meter, the old ‘plastic sheet test’ can give a hint: tape a 2×2 foot plastic sheet tightly to the slab, wait 24 hours, and see if condensation appears underneath.

Epoxy needs a dry, stable slab to bond correctly. If the floor “fails” the moisture test, wait longer, improve ventilation, use a moisture barrier primer, or consider other flooring options.

For more facts on why moisture is so critical in coatings, check the research at PMC: Substrate dryness is one of the most common causes for epoxy failure, right up there with poor cleaning.

Step 5: Mechanical profiling (grinding the floor)

Now, a step that truly separates a decent job from a professional one. Grinding—sometimes called ‘profiling’—opens up concrete pores and gives the epoxy something to grip. Skip it, and you risk peeling or flaking within a season or two.

What works best?

• An angle grinder with a diamond cup wheel for small jobs or edges.
• A walk-behind concrete grinder for larger surfaces (often rented locally).
• Never use acid etching alone on floors in Florida. It won’t reach deeply enough for modern garage coatings.

Aim for a surface texture that feels faintly like 120-grit sandpaper. Sweep, vacuum, and wipe with a damp, lint-free cloth before the next step. If you want to see a full guide for a similar process, our concrete project tips and guides offer a valuable resource.

Grinding creates the bond. No shortcuts.

Step 6: Final cleaning and taping off

At this point, the floor may look cleaner than it ever has. But even microscopic dust can affect results. At GCM Best Services we:

• Double vacuum (shop-vac, then lint-free cloth, if possible).
• Inspect thoroughly with a flashlight to spot any missed dust or debris.
• Dry-mop if needed, but avoid leaving any moisture before coating day.
• Tape off baseboards, doorways, and anything you don’t want accidental splatter on.

Now your floor is ready for epoxy mixing and application. As the FHWA outlines for protective coatings: optimal results depend on proper surface prep and coating to the correct thickness—usually 5–7 mils (125–175 micrometers) for most garage coatings.

Step 7: Application timing and conditions

Check the weather and aim for a day when humidity is moderate and temperatures sit between 60°F and 80°F—perfect epoxy curing territory for Central Florida. Bring all coating products, tools, and safety equipment onto the prepared slab, and follow your chosen epoxy’s instructions for mixing—watch the ratios closely. As PMC-published research notes, mix ratio errors with epoxy can badly weaken its mechanical strength and lifespan.

Measure twice. Mix once.

Apply epoxy in thin, even coats using a roller designed for concrete coatings. If you’re adding color chips or decorative flake, broadcast them while the first coat is still wet. Let the first coat cure to a firm-but-tacky state before continuing.

Follow manufacturer and local code recommendations for curing times. The NCBI Bookshelf notes that garage floor epoxy is usually dry to the touch in one hour, but walking should be delayed for 48 hours and vehicles kept off for up to 96 hours—especially for high-strength finishes like the ones we apply at GCM Best Services.

Step 8: Final inspection and maintenance tips

After curing, peel away tape carefully and inspect for missed patches, rough spots, or bubbles. While proper prep prevents most issues, sometimes humidity or a missed spot causes small imperfections. Address these now with touch-up resin or a light sanding as needed.

• Allow the coating full time to cure before loading heavy storage or parking vehicles, as recommended in product instructions and supported by recent NCBI guidance.
• Keep your new floor clean by dry-dusting or damp mopping as needed. Avoid harsh or abrasive cleaners, which can dull epoxy’s shine.
• For more details about the long-term care of concrete projects in Florida, see our maintaining Orlando concrete surfaces guide.

Common mistakes to avoid

We see some “classic” Florida errors time and again. These steps matter most:

• Don’t skip moisture testing. Even “dry” slabs can hide problems.
• Grinding, not just acid etching, is key for strong bonding.
• Never rush the cure. Even if a floor seems dry, early traffic can scar or ruin a fresh epoxy finish.
• Clean beyond what seems necessary: Dust finds ways to settle on paint, especially in humid Florida garages with open doors.
• Don’t overload cracks with filler not rated for horizontal surfaces—some shrink, leaving dips beneath your coating.

Patience before, pride after.

How do Central Florida soils and climate affect garage prep?

Our sandy and sometimes unstable soils can cause ground movement, which leads to cracks or uneven patches. High humidity and hurricane season rains can introduce hidden moisture into garage slabs, increasing the risk of peeling if not tested for and managed. These conditions demand a higher standard of surface prep than many other regions. We take these regional details seriously at GCM Best Services, which is why so many Central Florida homeowners trust us for projects from St. Cloud driveways to garage and patio coatings.

What about older floors or previously coated surfaces?

If your garage floor has had a prior coating—paint or even old, failed epoxy—it must come off. Remnants will prevent your new system from bonding fully. Grinding is generally more effective and less messy than chemical stripping. Sometimes, multiple passes are needed, and the results can feel discouraging. Take it slow, and focus on a section at a time. When in doubt, getting help or advice from professionals (like our GCM Best Services team) can prevent wasted effort and costly product loss.

Conclusion: Start strong for a surface that lasts

Preparing a garage floor in Central Florida for epoxy isn’t just “clean and coat.” It’s about understanding this climate, using the right tools, patiently correcting every flaw, and knowing when and how to grind, test, and clean for a result you can show off for years. We’ve seen the success stories—and stepped in on failed jobs too. That’s why we don’t cut corners for any surface, whether driveway, garage, or retail project.

If you want a tough, head-turning garage floor, it all starts with prep. Whether you’re planning a DIY approach or seeking professional hands, our crews at GCM Best Services are always ready to help—from first inspection to written warranty. To know more or get a no-obligation quote, reach out to us—see your old floor become a source of pride, not frustration.

Ready for a professional quote? 📞 (407) 250-1948 • 24–48h • Orlando, Tampa & area.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best way to clean concrete?

The best way to clean concrete before an epoxy application is a two-step process: deep degreasing followed by rinsing and finally drying. Start by using a specialized concrete degreaser and a stiff-bristle brush. Scrub the surface thoroughly, let it sit for proper dwell time (usually 10–15 minutes), then pressure wash the slab. If needed, repeat until all oil, stains, and contaminant residue are removed. Finish with a shop vacuum and allow the surface to dry before proceeding. Avoid acid washes, as these rarely provide lasting results for high-end coatings and may not be compatible with all epoxies.

How to fix cracks before applying epoxy?

To properly repair cracks before epoxy, begin with a clean, dust-free surface—vacuum out all loose debris first. Use a two-part epoxy crack filler or a sandable polymer-modified patching compound. For hairline cracks, injectable products often work best; for wider cracks or spalling, trowel in the filler so it sits slightly proud of the surface. Let it cure as specified, then sand flush to the surrounding concrete. Vacuum up dust before coating. Taking time here prevents cracks from telegraphing through your epoxy later.

Which tools do I need for prepping?

You’ll want these: concrete degreaser, stiff brush, shop vacuum, pressure washer (for tough stains), angle grinder with a diamond cup wheel for surface profiling, moisture meter, PPE (respirator, gloves, goggles), painter’s tape, and plastic sheeting. Additional tools might include crack filler, plastic spatulas, lint-free rags, and safety overalls. For full details, review the list at the start of this article. Our team never skips these tools on any job—it’s how we guarantee results built to last.

How long does garage floor prep take?

It depends on the floor’s current state. For most Central Florida garages, expect one full day for cleaning, repairs, and moisture testing, plus time for patching compounds or crack fillers to cure—often 1–2 days for deep repairs. Surface grinding and final cleaning might require several additional hours. If applying the coating yourself, budget 2–3 days for cleaning, repairing, and prepping, and at least 1–2 more full days for coating and proper curing. As outlined by NCBI Bookshelf, newly coated floors require 48 hours before walking and a full 96 hours before driving, totaling up to a week for the full process.

Is it worth it to epoxy garage floors?

For many in Central Florida, epoxy is worth it when applied over properly prepped concrete—done right, it resists staining, is easy to clean, and adds resale value. Epoxy coatings protect concrete against moisture, chemicals, and abrasion, which is a big deal with our sandy, humid conditions. A properly installed floor transforms the look of a garage and can make it more suitable for hobbies or work. Just remember: “done right” means prepping carefully or choosing a trusted contractor like GCM Best Services who stands behind their work.